taste | grill technique

By AMY BENTLEY

IT’S THE SEASON for outdoor cooking and cool evening get-togethers on the patio. If it’s time to spruce up or revamp the grill or outdoor kitchen area, here’s a look at what to consider:

Gas or charcoal?
Gas grills are more popular, but charcoal has its die-hard fans, said Frank Mello at Bull BBQ, which sells both kinds of grills at outlets throughout the Inland Empire.

The Ontario company makes four free-standing barbecue models with various features, priced from $999 to $2,999.

"People who swear by charcoal say you get more flavor out of it than a gas grill," Mello said.

To capture that smoky flavor, select a charcoal barbecue with grates that lift easily so you can add more coals while cooking, he adds.

Both grill types have benefits and drawbacks.

"Gas is easier," said Deborah Krasner, author of "The New Outdoor Kitchen" (Taunton Press). "Charcoal is more trouble, but the results you get are considerably different. You get a more intense heat, more flavor and a fire that is much more primeval in the experience. The difference is like baking a cake from scratch instead of using a mix."

Charcoal or gas, a good barbecue lights and controls heat easily. The legs should be sturdy and the wheels on the cart should roll easily.

Size and BTUs
If a 30- to 36-inch cooktop is large enough for your family indoors, it will probably satisfy your outside barbecuing needs as well, Krasner said. But she recommends a bigger unit if you plan to cook veggies, corn on the cob and large pieces of meat at the same time.

Free-standing grills typically come with cooking surfaces up to 54 inches, but Krasner notes that larger grills are not an effective use of gas if you’re only cooking four hamburgers or a couple of steaks.

For gas grills, be sure to look for multi-burner units.

"You get a more even temperature spread through your grill," said Ben Ugarte, an assistant manager at the Lowe’s home improvement store in San Bernardino.

Lowe’s carries several models of gas barbecues, starting at $100. A top-of-the- line unit that costs $1,000 is the Jenn-Air four-burner, 32-inch gas grill with stainless steel grates, a side burner and a lifetime warranty on the burners. It also comes with a griddle for pancakes or eggs.

Don’t hesitate to ask the salesperson about BTUs (British Thermal Units), which indicate the volume of gas a grill can burn.

BTUs vary depending upon the number of burners and side burners, and a grill with four burners should have at least 50,000 BTUs, according to Mello. Bull barbecues all have 75,000 BTUs.

Optional features
This is where buying a barbecue can get really fun. It’s great to have a rotisserie, Mello says. Warming racks, built-in thermometers, side burners and searing burners are great, too.

A side burner lets you cook veggies, beans, sauces or other dishes while the meat is grilling. A searing burner heats to 1,000 degrees and seals in the meat’s natural juices.

"Searing burners are a hot little thing right now," Mello said.

"You put the meat on it first to seal in the juices and then put the meat elsewhere on the grill. It cooks throughout, but the juices stay inside."

Stainless steel is the most durable material for outdoor free-standing barbecues. "Make sure it’s real stainless steel," Mello adds.

How can you tell? If a magnet sticks to a so-called stainless-steel grill, the metal is probably a low-quality steel, and it won’t last as long.

Mello and Krasner agree that high- quality barbecues are constructed from 304-grade stainless steel.

Another consideration is lighting the barbecue. Mello said each burner should have its own igniter.

Grill buying tips
-- Look for a good warranty, especially on the burners. A warranty on the burners should be at least 20 years.

-- Check the availability of parts and service.

-- If the barbecue is being connected to a gas line, make sure it can accommodate the BTUs.

-- If the barbecue uses propane, make sure there is plenty of gas in the tank, or have an extra tank on hand in case the first one runs out unexpectedly.

-- Use cast iron grill grates or ones cov- ered with porcelain, for durability and better grilling.

-- Buy a cover to keep the barbecue clean and protected from the elements.