By BETTS GRIFFONE, PHOTOS BY JENNIFER CAPPUCCIO-MAHER
ED BELL learned the basics of cooking at a young age.
Growing up in Arkansas, he and his six brothers and sisters took turns planning Sunday dinner. Each of them would write a menu and give it to their father, who would buy all of the ingredients. It was then their responsibility to prepare dinner.
Bell and his family moved to California in 1966, and his interest in cooking increased.
In the mid-1980s, he started deep-frying turkeys. His family was reluctant at first, but soon learned to appreciate the special taste of a perfectly cooked bird.
That led to trying all sorts of grilling ideas until Bell became what he is today: the barbecue master.
In addition to catering events for groups of 100 to 200 people, Bell has entered more than 20 competitions, winning several.
After one state competition, a new dimension was added to his cooking technique. He learned that smokers were becoming more and more important in the art of grilling, so he bought a smoker and dubbed his team "The Change Smoker."
Bell has competed all over the United States. He belongs to barbecue societies and associations in California and Kansas City, is a member of the National BBQ Association and is a certified barbecue judge.
Family is a big part of Bell’s life. His wife and two sons often accompany him on catering jobs, and his daughter
handles cleanup duties.
Unbelievably delicious barbecue runs in Bell’s family. As a child, Bell watched his uncle carefully and learned as much as he could — then went on to improve on his uncle’s style. Bell’s aunt believes that he has succeeded.
One of the things Bell learned from his uncle — which would help anyone reaching for the tongs — is to make sure the fire is even. That tip applies more to charcoal fires than gas grills, but it’s an important rule to follow to get a perfectly grilled piece of meat.
Bell seems to be comfortable trying new things. At a recent event he catered for the New World International Wine Competition, he was asked to design a Cuban menu. Bell included several varieties of meats: sausages, chicken and — at the last minute — salmon.
He also planned to serve black beans, rice and plantains. Bell had never cooked plantains before, so he visited several Latin markets to ask questions. He wanted to know how to ripen the yellow, banana-looking fruits, how to tell when they were ripe, how to prepare them and how to serve them.
One of his sons had tried plantains during a trip to Florida, so he had some idea about how they were supposed to taste. With that information and help from employees at the produce markets, he was able to present great-tasting, sautéed plantains that complemented the spicy sausages.
It was important to Bell that the beans and rice were as true to the Cuban style as the meats, so he incorporated sweet and tart flavors. The addition of a spicy jicama salad that included oranges, onions and chilies ensured a delicious authentic Cuban feast.
When asked what challenges he faces while catering, Bell shrugged and said planning is the most important part of the equation — making sure that everything is done when it’s supposed to be. He calls it "mental preparation," spending a lot of time thinking through a catering job, making mental lists of things that need to be done and creating a timetable for success.
When you cater an event, there’s no running back to the kitchen for something that might have been forgotten.
Everything has to be there.
At home, Bell says his wife does most of the cooking — but he’s still in charge of the barbecue.
The Change Smoker
Information: (951) 315-3658
BELL’S TIPS FOR GOOD GRILLING
-- Make sure the fire is even — no hot or cool spots.
-- One charcoal briquette generates about 40 degrees of heat. For a 400-degree fire in an average home-size grill, start with 10 to 12 briquettes.
-- Take the meat out of the refrigerator about 20 minutes before grilling.
Bigger cuts of meat require extra time.
-- A little salt and fresh pepper are your best seasonings.
-- After cooking, let meats stand for 10-15 minutes to prevent juices from escaping when the meat is cut.
Seafood should stand for about 5 minutes.
-- For a great flavor, top the meat with a tablespoon of compound butter.
Another tablespoon can be placed under the meat creating a nice sauce.
(Compound butters can be made by softening a cube of butter, stirring in a little lemon juice, smashed garlic and finely chopped herbs — thyme or rosemary or any favorite. Roll the butter into a log in waxed paper and close both ends. Refrigerate until solid, then slice as needed.)
Bell’s favorite pork roast
Bring grill to 250 degrees
Ingredients
4-5 lbs. boneless pork roast Olive oil
3 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons ground black pepper
1 1⁄2tablespoons chopped rosemary
1 jar peach preserves
Directions
Rinse the pork roast and pat dry. Rub with olive oil. Combine seasonings and rub generously over entire roast.
Place on grill with cover down for two hours. Remove meat and wrap in foil. Place back on grill for another hour.
While pork rests, place peach preserves in a sauce pan and heat to liquid stage. Reduce by about one fourth.
After letting the roast rest for 20 minutes, slice and top with peach preserves.
Alternately, fresh peaches can be halved and placed on the grill. Baste with a little simple syrup (equal amounts of sugar and water boiled until sugar dissolves). Remove after a few minutes, slice and serve with pork roast.
