By GINO L. FILIPPI
WHETHER YOU'RE A NOVICE, enthusiast or certified snob, many wine lovers are intrigued by unique grape varieties and refined blends.
"Varietal" describes wines produced from a single named grape variety. Here are some flavorful offerings: Dolcetto: Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d'Alba 2005, $22.99 Originating in the famous Piedmont region of Italy, Dolcetto produces deeply pigmented wines, with rich fruit character, high in natural acidity and mild tannins. In California, acres are limited.
"Dolcetto D'Alba was produced from 100 percent Dolcetto grapes from choice vineyards of Italy," said John Weeks of Regal Wine Company.
There are four production areas — two in Barolo, one in Novello and one in Monforte d'Alba, he added. The wine is ruby red with intense purple hues, and fresh, with a fruity prune-like scent.
"The palate is full, round and structured with good presence of sweet tannins and well balanced acidity," Weeks said. "It is deeply flavored and bursting with expressive varietal notes of black fruits, spices and minerals. Made in a rich, sumptuous style, (it was given a) 90-point rating by Wine Advocate."
Available at NapaCabs in Chino, Liquorama Fine Wines & Spirits in Upland, and La Bodega Wines & Spirits in Riverside.
Grenache:
Quivira Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, Wine Creek Ranch, 2006 Quivira Grenache, $24.99 This age-old red grape varietal is almost always the hinge grape for famous Chateaneuf du Pape wines from the southern-most Rhone Valley.
"Grenache is more well-known, but the average oenophile usually needs some explanation and certainly a taste before glomming onto the juice whole- heartedly," said Mark Tevault, wine buyer at Pacific Wine Merchants & Cigar Exchange in Upland.
"Quivira Grenache is as dark as many a syrah, yet the olfactory sense are of more vibrancy and clarity. You pull full scents of fleshy blackberries and raspberries, white spices, dried purple flowers, tilled earth and moderate oak," Tevault said. "The mouth holds complete coverage without being cloying ... the fruit factors are lithe and compelling with all the background elementals well strewn throughout and held together by fine natural acids and smooth tannins. This is a wine for the table."
Available at Pacific Wine Merchants & Cigar Exchange in Upland.
Malbec:
Terrazas Malbec Reserva 2005, $11.99 Argentina is now the home of the dark Malbec.
"There are some great wines found there," said Dana Chandler of Upland.
"It's only of minor importance in California, where it is rarely utilized as a 100 percent varietal release. Once a major component in the great wines of (Medoc) Bordeaux, it is mainly used to add color and tannin. The best of Argentine Malbecs are deep inky reds with juicy dark fruit and soft tannins."
Prior to 1870, disease-resistant vines were planted in South America from the original European vinifera, Chandler added. Amazingly, they somehow survived. Some say due to the winter snow melt that floods the vines every year and protects the roots.
"Whatever the explanation, it is a treat to be able to enjoy authentic Argentina Malbec whose unique root stock provides rich mineral depth," Chandler said. "The 2006 vintage is one of my favorites."
The 2005 vintage scored 89 points in Wine Spectator, but won't break the bank. It's a very lush wine, with a well- rounded chewy texture with raspberry and blackberry jam flavors.
Available online, or ask your favorite wine shop.
Petit Verdot:
Trader Joe's Reserve Petit Verdot Paso Robles 2006, $9.99 This powerful red grape adds a rich purple color, firm tannins and an exotic floral and spicy perfume.
Principally used in classic Bordeaux blends, Petit Verdot is on the upswing in the New World. It's a rising star in the California and Australian wine game, and an enjoyable pour offering generous overtones of plum, blackberry and black current. Produced by Ancient Peaks Winery exclusively for Trader Joe's, it's a great value priced at less than $10.
Pinot Gris:
Handley Cellars Anderson Valley 2006Pinot Gris, $14.99 Labeled either Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio in North America, this white variety has become quite successful in the cool vineyards of the Pacific Northwest and British Columbia.
Considered a mutation of Pinot Noir, the Pinot Gris grape can range in color from gray-blue to pink.
Few varieties demonstrate as well as Pinot Gris the degree to which terroir influences the styles of wine. The grape may be most familiar to wine consumers as Pinot Grigio from northern Italy where it is responsible for large volumes of generally neutral, crisp white wines.
"There's coastal freshness to this wine's luscious fruit, and that freshness lasts," said John Solomon, of Liquorama Fine Wines & Spirits in Upland. "Plump and delicious when first poured, the citrus and nectarine flavors deepen and feel more structured the next day."
"The luscious viscosity of this wine is evident when it is swirled in the glass," he added. "Tangerine aromas precede equally fresh tangerine flavors, with a hint of honeysuckle. It is rich and full on the palate, with distinctive Pinot Gris aromatics throughout."
Wine & Spirits gave it 94 points.
Available at Liquorama Fine Wine & Spirits.
Vermentino: Tablas Creek Vineyard, Paso Robles Vermentino 2006, $24.99 Considered to be the Malvasia grape under another name, Vermentino is often associated with Corsica, where it is used to produce full-bodied, dry, white wines, which go well with seafood. It is best when young.
"This wine is Tablas Creek's fifth bottling of this traditional Mediterranean varietal, which produces wines that are bright, clean and crisp, with distinctive citrus character, refreshing acidity and surprising richness," said Weeks at Regal Wine. "It shows a clean, mineral nose featuring peppered citrus and pear.
Flavors of green apple and lime are heightened by refreshing acidity, good richness, no evidence of oak and a lingering finish."
Available at NapaCabs in Chino, Liquorama in Upland, and La Bodega in Riverside.
Other tasty drops Grenache Noir: Brandt Family Winery in Upland produces Grenache Noir Santa Barbara 2007. Information: www.brandtwine.com.
Cerdon du Bugey: The Bugey, halfway between Lyons and Geneva, is one of the tiniest and most obscure wine areas in France. "The grape varietals are many from surrounding areas: Gamay, Poulsard, Roussette, Mondeuse and Chardonnay. It's best the year following the vintage. Served cold, the refreshing effervescence and delightful berry flavors make Cerdon the perfect aperitif.
Alternatively, Cerdon ($17.99) can be served with fruit-based and chocolate desserts," said Liquorama's Solomon.
Gino L. Filippi can be reached aginoffvine@aol.com.
